Gardening Pleasures

Archive for the ‘Seeds & Plants’ Category

Seeds

Starting annuals and vegetables from seed can be rewarding or disastrous depending upon the outcome.

Many people start seeds too early and then try to hold the seedlings  back until it is warm enough to plant them outdoors.  Starting them too early can  result in either yellow seedlings that are short and hard and grow very slowly or spindly ones that grow too tall and topple over.  Neither will do well when planted outdoors.

 

Conditions: Seeds require certain conditions to germinate and grow properly.  These include temperature, light and humidity.  Also, good sanitary practices must be followed so as to reduce problems with diseases.

 

Germination media:  Soil mixtures such as a 3-2-1 or 2-1-1 or even a 1-1-1 (soil, peat and sand) can be used to start seeds.  However the mix must be treated to reduce disease problems.  Treatment can be with heat or the chemical methyl bromide.  On a smaller scale, heating a 2-3 inch layer of mix in a preheated oven at 180ºF (82ºC) for one hour will pasteurize it.  To avoid using chemicals or heat, purchase an appropriate ready mixed compost designed specially for seeds.

 

Containers:  Anything that will hold about 2″ (5cm) of the media, with drainage holes in the bottom can be used to start seeds.  Fill the containers with the moistened mix, firm down lightly and label.

Seeds:  Use only the best seeds.  Old seeds or those that have not be stored properly may not germinate.  If extra seeds are to be stored from one year to the next, keep them at 40-50ºF (5-10ºC) in an air tight container such as a coffee jar. The humidity should also be kept below 50%, an average home fridge will do the job.

Many people tend to sow seeds too thickly.  Home gardeners should sow seeds about ¼ inch (0.6cm) apart and in rows.  Cover large seeds lightly with  the soil mix, washed sand or vermiculite.  Leave small seeds uncovered.  If seeds are sown too thickly, tall spindly seedlings may result.

 

Water and humidity:  After sowing and covering, water the seeds well.  Do this with a fine mist or sub-irrigation so that the seeds will not be washed away. After watering try to keep the humidity at 80% or higher.  This will reduce water loss from the germinating media.

Some growers cover the seed flats with wet burlap, clear plastic, or newspapers.  Home gardeners may slip the seed flats into large clear plastic bags.  Place in light but not direct sunlight.  Do not let the temperature in the plastic bag go above 85ºF (29ºC).  Check the flats daily to make sure the  surface of the soil is moist. As soon as seedlings emerge, remove the plastic bag.

 

Temperature:  This is one of the most critical factors in starting seeds.  Temperature that is too low or too high will reduce or stop germination.  Bottom heat from electric cables, hot pipes or radiators may assist in maintaining proper temperature.  The temperature required is of the growing media not the air.

 

Light:  Some annual and vegetable seeds require light to germinate.  Place seed flats where some light is available.  After seedlings emerge, provide full sunlight or, if not possible, use fluorescent lights and supply about 27 lamp watts per square foot.  Containers with the seedlings should be placed 8 inches  (20cm) below the lamps.  A 14 hour day should be provided, usually 8am to10pm. Transplant seedlings when the true leaves appear.

 

Hardening-off:  About 7-10 days before plants are to be planted outside, the plants may be hardened-off.  This is done by lowering the temperature by moving them outside during the day and back in again at night or withholding water.  During this period the plants should be in full sunlight. Do not harden off cucumbers, melons or squash.

 

Ensuring you get the best from the plants you buy

Plants for containers and bedding as well as vegetables and fruits are readily available during the spring and summer.  Many can be obtained in your local garden centres or by mail order and over the Internet.  They come in various stages of growth and sizes and the cost will depend on how much time and effort the grower has put into the plant prior to you buying it.

Take a bit of time once you get your new plants home to re-pot or plant them out.  With care and attention to watering, feeding and pest control, newly purchased plants will give you pleasure for this season, and depending on the plant, perhaps many more to come.

 

Potting
Particularly for summer hanging baskets or window boxes, use good quality compost for potting up newly purchased plants. Soil-less composts, while light and easy to handle, will dry out quickly and plants that are fast-growing, like fuchsias, will quickly be short of the nutrients they require.

Another important factor is the stability of the plant. For reliable results choose a compost (such as John Innes No.1) that is at least partially soil-based.  This will also reduce the consequences of over-watering.  To ensure the plant remains upright, use a small (3.5 inch /9cm) pot, and  lightly firm the compost. For the first time, water the plant thoroughly to settle the compost. Place the plant in a light, cool place to help it recover quickly from being transplanted and new growth should begin quite soon.

 

Growing On
As your plants develop a good root ball, they can be moved to their final positions, whether that is a container, basket or open ground. To check on root growth, carefully remove the plant from the pot, the white roots should fill the pot evenly. Using a similar compost such as John Innes No.2, and plant it out or plant in a pot.

 

Watering
During the growing season, watering is your most important task. Two basic rules apply – never allow the plant to stand in waterlogged conditions and never allow the plants to dry out completely. Water standing in a tray or plant saucer for a  short period will not create any problems, however significant over-watering can often result in leaves and flowers dropping. The best time to water is in the evening, be sure to moisten the soil evenly. An overhead spray can be beneficial to plants in very hot weather.

 

Pests & Diseases
Many plants such as Fuchsias actually suffer relatively infrequently from diseases although the most likely pests are aphids – greenfly and whitefly.  However with regular inspection, and spraying if necessary, these insects can easily be kept at bay.  Insect sprays for aphids are readily available from garden centres. Avoid treating plants during the middle of the day or in bright sunlight. Always read the label and use garden chemicals accordingly.

With fuchsias, the two main diseases to look out for are botrytis or grey mould and rust. Be careful about watering, feeding and growing conditions and inspect your plants regularly for any of the telltale signs of disease. If you see indications and treatment is required, use one of proprietary products that are widely available.

For as long as there have been gardens there has been some degree of garden envy. Whether the garden contains flowering or non-flowering plants or vegetables, there always seems to be one garden that is more beautiful, prolific, greener, more colorful, or yields more food.

If you find yourself looking over the garden fence and envious of others, chances are that if you take the time to learn about plants, their optimal growing conditions - preferred soil conditions, placement in sunlight or shade, the amount of water required - you, too, can create a summer garden that will rival the best in your neighbourhood.

Gardens require time, effort, energy and planning to become the absolute best. And, depending on your lifestyle, your efforts may be best put into making small improvements each year,  rather than a massive overhaul that may put you off forever.

That being said, there is some useful information below to help you to make your summer garden the best it can be.

As one of the first things to do, check whether there are any regulations that may affect what you do with your garden.  Once you know what you can and cannot do, test the pH of the soil to ascertain the soil acidity you currently have and if any adjustments need to be made to your planting plan.  Some plants do not like an acid soil while others do not get on well in an alkaline soil. For example roses like a somewhat acidic soil while hydrangeas will give you different colour blooms depending on the ph of the soil – somewhat acidic soil gives blue flowers, neutral to alkaline gives pink flowers and a high ph (very alkaline) will give you purple or a mixture of colours on the same plant.

You should also understand that every decision you make about your garden will affect the yield and output to some degree.  And, there are always events that are beyond your control, regardless of how carefully you plan. Some years we have record rainfalls in one part of the country while other parts experience drought. The next year it could be the other way around.  When planning what to put in your garden, think about what grows naturally in the area and include plants that will tolerate a certain amount of drought.

Each plant has its own needs that must be met for optimal growth and yield. If those needs are not met, your chances of having the best  flowers, the most vegetables or the greenest leaves can be vastly reduced. If having the very best is not part of your plan then your garden won’t require as much time or effort as it would take to grow ribbon-winning vegetables or flowers.

Avoid using pesticides as much as possible as they can be harmful to beneficial insects, animals and humans. Instead try to use pest control methods that are natural and humane, particularly if planting vegetables your family will be eating.

Grow a garden that makes sense for your lifestyle.  If you don’t have the time to weed, feed, water, etc. plant flowers that don’t need lots of care and attention.  Also plant within the constraints of the conditions and space you have for gardening. If you have only shady conditions, choose flowers, plants and vegetables that thrive in those conditions rather than choosing those that need lots of sunlit conditions you don’t have. Don’t forget however, you can have some very nice specimen plants that may not like your soil conditions but that will grow happily in a pot.

More importantly, bring into your garden those plants that you love. The pleasure you get will often determine how much effort you are willing to put into taking care of your garden.  The more you enjoy the results, the more likely you are to enjoy putting in the effort necessary to get those results.